[NTG-context] OSFONTDIR defined in texmf.cnf not used

[Exp]

Hi all,

I've put `OSFONTDIR=/usr/share/fonts` in ~/.../texlive/2019/texmf.cnf,
but `mtxrun --script fonts --reload` refuses to look it up, even though
`kpsewhich --expand-path '$OSFONTDIR'` gives /usr/share/fonts.

`export OSFONTDIR=/usr/share/fonts` does work, but doesn't feel very tex-y.

Any help is appreciated.
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